Ice maker quiet since you moved into your Lacey home, or a bin of clumps with nothing new dropping?
Each one gets the same $99 visit and a price on paper before work.

Lacey sits just down I-5 from Joint Base Lewis-McChord, and when PCS season arrives a good number of houses change hands or tenants in a short stretch. Whether it is a house in Hawks Prairie, a rental off Marvin Road or a townhome near the Meridian Campus park, the refrigerator ice maker is often one of the first things a new household finds not working. Sometimes the machine is fine and the supply valve behind it was closed at move-out. Sometimes the line was pinched when the fridge was pushed back, or the water filter is long overdue. And sometimes a part failed while the house sat empty, which is what a meter sorts out.
A typical move-in call: the family arrives from another base, stocks the fridge, and three days later there is still no ice. The supply valve is open and the water dispenser runs, but slowly. Behind the fridge, the inlet valve screen is packed with fine grit, and the fill tube into the ice maker holds a plug of ice from a valve that dribbled while the house was vacant. A few Lacey wells run slightly high in iron and manganese, and that sediment finds the smallest screen in the house. The tube gets thawed and cleared, a valve that leaks by or shows coils out of range is swapped, and then we stand there for a full harvest.
Start with the basics: the shutoff arm or switch, the supply valve and the freezer temperature. Past those, the usual suspects are an inlet valve that quit, ice plugging the fill tube, or a dead module. We meter the valve coil and the module’s heater and motor, then name the part.
Undersized cubes mean the mold isn’t getting a full fill. A clogged or overdue water filter, low household pressure, a kinked line or a weak inlet valve can each cut the flow. We check pressure at the valve, the filter and the line, and replace whatever restricts it.
When the fill tube ices over, water can’t reach the mold and the ice maker cycles empty. The cause is often a valve that drips between fills or a freezer running colder than it should. We melt the plug, check whether the valve lets water creep through when it should be shut, and meter the tube heater on models built with one.
On LG and other French-door fridges, where the maker rides in the fresh-food door, ice can build up around it and the bin when a seal leaks or the compartment fan fails. We melt the buildup, check the seal and fan, and repair the part behind the icing.
A leak at the back usually comes from the supply line connection, a cracked inlet valve body or a compression fitting loosened during a move. Plastic lines kinked when the fridge was pushed back can split later. We tighten or replace the fitting, test the valve and check the full line.
Ice that fuses into a block usually means the freezer warmed and refroze, as after an outage, or the bin sat unused for weeks. Off-tasting ice points to an old filter or odors in the freezer. We check freezer temperature and defrost, then advise on filter timing and bin care.
| What you notice | Likely cause | On the visit |
|---|---|---|
| Bin empty, water dispenser works | Frozen fill tube or failed ice maker module | Thaw the tube, meter module heater and motor |
| Bin empty, dispenser slow or dry | Closed supply valve, clogged filter or inlet screen | Check supply pressure, the filter and the valve screen |
| Small or hollow cubes | Low water pressure or weak inlet valve | Measure flow, replace a restricted filter or valve |
| Ice buildup around the door maker | Leaking seal or failed compartment fan | Melt the ice, test the fan, inspect the seal |
| Ice clumped into one block | Freezer warmed and refroze, or low use | Check freezer temperature and defrost operation |
Inside the freezer, the ice maker runs one short loop over and over: fill, freeze, harvest. Our diagnosis walks that same loop. First we confirm the freezer holds a temperature cold enough to finish a batch, since a warm freezer makes a good ice maker look dead. Next comes the water itself, followed from the household shutoff to the inlet valve, through the filter and up the fill tube. Many modules have a test button or test mode that forces a harvest. If the motor turns but no water follows, the valve side is at fault, and the meter shows whether its coil is open. If nothing moves at all, the module or its wiring comes next.
Freezer drawer, top freezer or fresh-food door, we work on the makers inside LG, Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire refrigerators, plus Café and KitchenAid. Standalone ice machines are outside our work. When a rental turns over during a PCS move or near Saint Martin’s University, the landlord or manager gets the written figure by text and okays it there, and a move-in check can be booked before the new household arrives. Whatever the repair comes to, the $99 is already folded into it once you say yes. Pass on the fix and you pay only the $99.
Make sure the supply valve behind the fridge or under the sink is fully open, the ice maker switch or arm is in the on position, and the freezer has had a full day to reach temperature. Replace the water filter if nobody knows its age. If there is still no ice a day later, book a visit.
Most ice makers want the freezer at or near 0°F. Many modules won’t harvest until the mold reaches a set cold point, so a freezer running in the teens can leave a working ice maker idle. If the freezer can’t get that cold, the real repair is on the refrigerator side, and we test that too.
It can, slowly. A few city wells run slightly high in iron and manganese, and fine sediment collects in the inlet valve screen and the refrigerator filter. Changing the filter on schedule helps. If the ice looks tinted or the flow keeps slowing, a pressure check and a meter reading show whether the valve itself has been damaged.
Yes. A move-out visit can confirm that the ice maker, the valve and the supply line are working and dry before the inspection. If something has failed, you get one written price and can decide whether to repair it before handing back the keys. Early or late windows can be requested to fit JBLM schedules.
No. We work only on ice makers built into refrigerators, along with the refrigerators themselves. Standalone and undercounter ice machines are a different design and fall outside the six machines we service. If your fridge has a built-in maker that has quit, we can diagnose and repair it in your kitchen.
Phone us or use the form. You get a two-hour slot, then a heads-up text as the van pulls out.
Leads on the circuit, a thermometer in the cabinet, and the broken component pointed out so you can see it yourself.
The whole repair priced in ink, $99 included. Yes or no is yours, and the toolbox stays shut until you answer.
A complete cycle run in front of you, panels back on, floor dried, and the warranty term in writing on your receipt.
$99 pinpoints what broke. Go ahead with the fix and it is already in the total; stop there and it is all you pay.