A puddle left in the tub when the wash ends, cloudy glassware, a Bosch flashing a leak code.
Each one gets the same $99 visit and a price on paper before work.

Three cities, three kinds of water. Olympia draws most of its supply from the McAllister Wellfield east of town, and it arrives soft, with almost no scale. Tumwater’s own wells run soft to moderately soft. Lacey pulls from wells in several aquifers, so a kitchen in Horizon Pointe may get different water than one in Tanglewilde, and a few of those wells carry enough iron and manganese to leave faint orange or dark stains. Past the city lines, private wells bring their own sediment. Each shows up in a dishwasher differently: etched glass, rust-tinted tubs, clogged inlet screens. Knowing which water a kitchen gets saves a wrong guess.
Soft water tempts people to use a full scoop of detergent, and extra detergent with nothing hard to bind to etches glassware over time. That cloudiness looks like scale but won’t wipe off. The mechanical failures are the familiar ones: drain pumps jammed with glass shards and fruit labels, filters never cleaned, inlet valves that stick, door gaskets that weep. A typical call: a Bosch in a South Capitol kitchen showing E15 and refusing to run. The anti-flood float in the base pan is up. Underneath sits a loose drain hose clamp. The pan gets dried, the hose reseated and clamped, and a complete wash proves the base stays dry.
Start with the filter under the lower rack, which on newer machines needs regular rinsing. If it’s clean, we check the drain pump for debris or a failed motor, then the check valve and the drain hose loop. Whatever part is at fault gets cleared or swapped, and a drain test runs before we leave.
A film that wipes off with vinegar is residue; cloudiness that won’t come off is etching, common with soft water and heavy detergent doses. We check water temperature, the heater, the spray arms and the rinse aid dispenser, then suggest a dose that suits your water.
Bosch machines stop and show E15 when water reaches the base pan. Others simply leak. The source is often a door gasket, a loose hose clamp, a cracked spray arm hub or a failing pump seal. Pulling the lower panels lets us trace the water to its source, which is what gets fixed rather than the puddle.
Many newer dishwashers dry by condensation and rinse aid instead of a heating element, so an empty rinse aid dispenser matters. On models with an element, we meter it and the high-limit thermostat. We also check the vent and fan on machines that have them.
Sediment clogs the inlet valve screen, especially on private wells and iron-bearing water, or the valve coil fails. A stuck float switch can also stop the fill. We check the supply valve under the sink, the float and the inlet valve, then replace whichever part failed.
A dishwasher sits dark or blinking when the door latch fails to make contact, the control board quits, or the control’s thermal fuse opens. We check the latch switch first, then meter the inputs and outputs at the board, and name which part is actually at fault.
| What you notice | Likely cause | On the visit |
|---|---|---|
| Standing water and a humming sound | Blocked drain pump or clogged filter | Clean the filter, clear or replace the pump |
| Glasses cloudy and won’t wipe clean | Etching from soft water and excess detergent | Check heater and rinse aid, adjust the dose |
| Orange or brown stains in the tub | Iron and manganese in the water supply | Inspect the inlet screen, discuss filtration options |
| Bosch shows E15 and won’t run | Water collected in the base pan | Trace the drip, then dry the base and reset the float switch |
| Top rack comes out dirty | Clogged upper spray arm or weak wash pump | Clear the spray arm jets, test the circulation pump |
Dishwasher diagnosis runs in the order the water moves. First, does it fill: we watch the inlet valve open, check the float and see how much water arrives. Then, does it wash: we listen for the circulation pump, check that the spray arms spin and look for blocked jets. Then, does it heat: on models with an element, the meter checks it along with the thermostat or thermistor. Last, does it drain: filter, pump, check valve, hose. Many machines carry a built-in service test that walks every stage in turn; we run it and read the stored fault codes too. When one stage fails, we meter that part and tell you plainly what broke.
Bosch, KitchenAid, Café, Whirlpool and Frigidaire dishwashers are regulars on our list, from the older kitchens of the Eastside to newer builds in Hawks Prairie and Bush Prairie. If the maker’s warranty still covers the machine, you hear that from us first. Tenants in Meridian Campus or near The Evergreen State College can book the visit; the landlord gets the written figure by text and okays it before we start. As for the $99: once you agree to the repair, the price you signed already holds it. Decline, and your whole visit comes to $99.
Olympia’s water is soft, so detergent has little to react with, and a full dose ends up working on the glass itself. That etching is permanent. Try a vinegar soak on one glass: if the film comes off, it’s residue and the machine may need attention; if it stays, it’s etching. Use less detergent, keep rinse aid filled, and we’ll check the heater and spray arms if residue is the issue.
A few Lacey wells, and many private wells in the county, carry iron and manganese that can leave rust-colored or dark stains on the tub and racks. It’s cosmetic in most cases, but the same sediment can clog the inlet valve screen and slow the fill. Cleaning the screen or fitting a new valve fixes the fill, and we can tell you whether the staining comes from the water or from rusting racks.
On most recent machines, yes. Older designs ground up food with a built-in chopper; many newer quiet models use a manual filter under the lower rack that needs rinsing every few weeks. A clogged filter causes poor washing, standing water and odors. Twist it out, rinse it under the tap, and seat it fully when you put it back.
Often. A new pump, valve, latch or gasket is a routine fix that keeps the machine in service. For a rental in Tumwater, Lacey or Olympia, the tenant opens the door for us while the owner or manager reviews the written figure by text and gives the okay before any work. That keeps the owner in charge of the decision without anyone having to take a morning off.
You pay the $99 diagnostic, and that’s the end of the bill. By then we will have named the failed part and given you the written price, so you have what you need to decide. If you go ahead instead, the $99 is inside that written price, not added on afterward.
Phone us or use the form. You get a two-hour slot, then a heads-up text as the van pulls out.
Leads on the circuit, a thermometer in the cabinet, and the broken component pointed out so you can see it yourself.
The whole repair priced in ink, $99 included. Yes or no is yours, and the toolbox stays shut until you answer.
A complete cycle run in front of you, panels back on, floor dried, and the warranty term in writing on your receipt.
$99 pinpoints what broke. Go ahead with the fix and it is already in the total; stop there and it is all you pay.